Buenos Aires es una ciudad de pizzas, y ya se lo dijimos en uno de nuestros últimos posts de esta sección, en el cual reseñamos la "performance" de Romario, una de las cadenas de pizzerías más cancheras de la ciudad. Sin embargo, mientras que hoy seguimos con las pizzerías tradicionales, nos vamos al histórico San Telmo para probar las pizzas legendarias de Tío Felipe, un local cuya reputación lo precede y que cuenta con la calificación, por muchas personas, de la "mejor pizza" de Buenos Aires.
Desde su fundación, Tío Felipe se ha transformado en el lugar de citas de los vecinos de la zona, además de los tangueros que acuden a los locales de shows de San Telmo. Al mediodía, es la sede de ruidosos almuerzos laborales, y afortunadamente se puede llamar para reservar, porque sino no conseguiríamos una mesa (aunque los camareros no tienen ningún problema en improvisar una mesa en la vereda de las casas aledañas). Vayamos a lo nuestro.
La Ambientación
Es cierto, el Tío Felipe prácticamente no ha cambiado desde que fue inaugurada, lo que le da un aire histórico y tradicional a sus paredes. Desde los platos hasta los cuadros que decoran el local, pasando por las sillas y el viejo mostrador de madera, Tío Felipe cambia su clientela pero no su amoblamiento.
Esto, por supuesto, es un plus: en los únicos locales donde vamos a encontrar algo similar, no será tan auténtico y sentido como en Tío Felipe. En esta pizzería, no es que se busca una estética retro para atraer a los turistas (quienes, sorprendentemente, no están demasiado presentes), sino que casi parece que no se preocupan por tener un local evolucionado.
La Cocina
Obviamente, lo que nos interesa es la comida. Los vecinos de San Telmo afirman que la fugazzeta rellena es la mejor de Buenos Aires, y después de probarla, debemos decir que tienen razón. Pero también la clásica pizza de muzzarella y salsa de tomate es increíble, una buena media masa con abundante queso que no es para nada cara.
Para los más atrevidos, también hay especiales que no son aptos para el estómago débil: como la homónima pizza Tío Felipe, con anchoas, provolone, muzzarella, morrón y longaniza. Para los que quieran ser un poco más tranquilos pero igual comer con potencia, la pizza de provolone es imperdible.
La Atención
Los camareros de Tío Felipe no se caracterizan por ser demasiado simpáticos; sin embargo, seguramente si se hace un relevamiento estarán en los primeros de la lista de los más eficientes de Buenos Aires. Si hay espera, se acuerdan quién está primero en la mesa indiferenciada que se amontona en la puerta; casi nunca se equivocan con los pedidos, y son rapidísimos.
No importa si el local está lleno o vacío, generalmente tenemos que esperar muy poco para que llegue nuestra orden. Los mozos siempre están dando vueltas por el local, que no es demasiado grande, por lo que si necesitamos algo de imprevisto, van a estar ahí para nosotros. Una mención especial tiene que hacerse para el "líder" de los mozos, un verdadero maestro en su arte, que básicamente controla todo lo que está sucediendo en la pizzería.
Lo Mejor
La pizza. No hay lugar a dudas. Sin pensarlo dos veces, Tío Felipe entra dentro de la lista de las mejores pizzas de Buenos Aires. La fugazzeta rellena es realmente única, con muchísimo queso, pero para los más tradicionales la relación pizza-precio es imperdible, sobre todo en una zona como San Telmo en la que todo sale caro.
Lo Peor
La zona. Aunque San Telmo es un barrio bellísimo, Tío Felipe está escondido en un pasaje que no permite que sea fácil de ubicar si previamente no anotamos la dirección, y la buscamos cuidadosamente para no perdernos. En segundo lugar, aunque no resultará molesto para todos, durante los almuerzos el ruido es increíble. Quizás le ponen algo alegre a la pizza, porque todos se ven motivados a gritar.
Horarios y Ubicación
Dirección: Balcarce 739, esquina del Pasaje San Lorenzo
Horarios: lunes a sábados, desde el mediodía al cierre, y los domingos, nada más durante la tarde.
Teléfono: 4307-8991
Foto: Flickr
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